Portrait 6 – Laura DEKKER, une ado qui n’a pas froid aux yeux

Je suis arrivée il y a quelques semaines sur l’île de Saint-Martin, l’île où Laura DEKKER, une adolescente néerlandaise, a bouclé le tour du monde à la voile, en solitaire avec escales en janvier 2012 à l’âge de 16 ans et 123 jours. Ceci a fait d’elle la plus jeune navigatrice à réaliser le tour du monde, battant de 8 mois le précédent record détenu par l’australienne Jessica WATSON qui, elle, reste toutefois la plus jeune navigatrice à avoir effectué un tour du monde à la voile sans escale en passant par les trois caps ! Des records établis mais non reconnus par les organes officiels qui refusent d’attribuer des records à des mineurs d’âge, pour éviter toute tentative dangereuse de record.

Pour réaliser son rêve, L aura a dû se battre farouchement. En effet, en 2009, à 13 ans, elle elle affiche déjà son intention de faire le tour du monde seule et sans assistance avec un départ qu’elle prévoit au mois de septembre. Malheureusement pour elle, les services de la protection de l’enfance s’opposent à cette idée qu’ils jugent trop dangereuse, les garanties présentées pour sa sécurité leur paraissant insuffisantes. Ils obtiennent donc la suspension du départ grâce à une mesure de justice.

Butée, Laura encourage ses parents à se battre avec elle devant les tribunaux pour prouver qu’elle a les capacités mentales et physiques pour réaliser son rêve.

Au bout de 10 mois de procédures, elle finit par gagner. Le tribunal rejette en juillet 2010 la demande de prolongation jusqu’en août 2011 du placement de la jeune fille sous la surveillance du Conseil de protection de l’enfance. Ce dernier renonce à interjeter appel contre cette décision. Il convient que ce sont les parents de Laura qui portent la responsabilité finale concernant leur enfant même s’il considère qu’un enfant de 14 ans ne devrait pas être exposé aux risques inutiles que comporte un tel voyage en solitaire.

Laura a le feu vert ! Il faut dire qu’elle a de l’expérience malgré son jeune âge. Son père est constructeur de bateaux et il a navigué au long cours pendant 7 années avec sa mère qui a donné naissance à Laura en Nouvelle-Zélande sur le bateau ! Elle navigue depuis son plus jeune âge. Quand ses parents divorcent en 2002, elle a 6 ans et elle décide de vivre avec son père aux Pays-Bas où elle continue à faire de la voile sur des bateaux de plus en plus grands. Elle commence par un Optimist, puis un dériveur de type « Mirror ». A 10 ans, elle veut un voilier avec une cabine. Ce sera donc un Hurley 700 qu’elle emprunte à son propriétaire pour faire ses premières longues distances en solo dans les eaux néerlandaises avant d’acheter le sien. A 13 ans, sur son Hurley 700, elle navigue seule jusqu’en Angleterre où elle est arrêtée par la police britannique sous les ordres des autorités hollandaises qui considèrent qu’elle n’aurait pas dû faire une telle navigation solo. Elle est remise aux mains de son père qui a été enjoint de se rendre en Angleterre et celui-ci l’autorise à repartir seule à la voile aux Pays-bas ! En effet, il sait ce que vaut sa fille et il l’a toujours encouragé. Elle commence alors à préparer son tour du monde. Cela commence par la recherche d’un bateau plus grand. Le Hurley 700 est bientôt vendu pour faire place à un Hurley 800 offert par un sponsor. C’est à cette période que le Conseil de protection de l’enfance commence à s’intéresser à son cas d’un peu trop près et les autorités lui retirent même son bateau. Laura ne se laisse pourtant pas abattre. Elle trouve sur internet un Dufour Arpège de 9 mètres en vente sur l’île de Saint-Martin et elle décide, sans rien dire à personne, de se rendre là-bas pour l’acheter. Elle retire ainsi 3.500 euros de son compte d’épargne et laisse juste une note à son père avant de partir en train à Paris d’où elle prend l’avion pour l’île des Caraïbes. Sur place, elle contacte le broker chargé de la vente du voilier et au-moment de signer les papiers, elle voit la procédure interrompue lorsque ce dernier est averti d’un mandat international de recherche pour Laura. Il est obligé de l’accompagner au Yacht-Club tout proche où l’attend la police locale qui la renvoie aux Pays-Bas sous escorte. Cela ne va pas arranger ses déboires avec la justice et cela l’empêche d’obtenir de nouveaux sponsors. Toutefois, elle n’abandonne pas son rêve. Elle travaille dur pour répondre à plusieurs demandes des juges : elle obtient notamment son brevet de secourisme, elle suit une formation sur la gestion du sommeil, elle s’assure de pouvoir poursuivre sa scolarité pendant son tour du monde grâce à des cours par correspondance. Sa famille puise dans ses propres économies pour lui permettre d’acheter un vieux Gizz Fizz, un ketch (voilier à 2 mâts) de 11,50 mètres, de chez Jeanneau qu’elle va entièrement refaire avec l’aide de son père. C’est le fameux Guppy avec lequel elle va établir son record.

Laura quitte enfin le port de Den Osse aux Pays-Bas le mercredi 4 août 2010, en compagnie de son père, pour rejoindre Lisbonne au Portugal d’où elle compte commencer son tour du monde à la voile en solitaire avec escales et assistance en prenant la route de l’Ouest. Malheureusement, arrivés là-bas, la paire se heurte de nouveau aux autorités qui ne veulent pas laisser partir Laura seule. Ils rejoignent donc Gibraltar, ancienne colonie britannique, extérieure à l’Europe où ils espèrent que le gouvernement hollandais n’arrivera pas à interférer à temps pour empêcher Laura de partir. Le 21 août 2010, elle commence enfin son voyage solo.

Sa route a été la suivante :
21 au 25/08/2010 : Gibraltar – Lanzarote (Canaries) : 650 milles
21/09/2010 : Lanzarote – Gran Canaria (Canaries) : 130 milles
10 au 16/11/2010 : Gran Canaria (Canaries) – Sal (Cap Vert) : 780 milles
17 au 18/11/2010 : Sal – Sào Nicolau (Cap Vert) : 85 milles
02 au 18/12/2010 : Sào Nicolau (Cap Vert) – Saint Martin : 2223 milles
20 au 21/01/2011 : Saint-Martin – Les Saintes : 154 milles
26/01/2011 : Les Saintes – La Dominique : 20 milles
02 au 05/02/2011 : La Dominique – Bonaire : 450 milles
14 au 19/03/2011 : Bonaire – San Blas : 670 milles
29 au 30/03/2011 : San Blas – Colòn (Panama) : 80 milles
10/04/2011 : Colòn (Panama) – Canal de Panama : 43 milles
16/04/2011 : Panama – Las Perlas : 50 milles
19 au 26/04/2011 : Las Perlas – Galàpagos : 900 milles
08 au 25/05/2011 : Galàpagos – Hiva Oa (Marquises) : 3.000 milles
01 au 06/06/2011 : Hiva Oa (Marquises) – Tahiti : 700 milles
13/06/2011 : Tahiti – Moorea : 18 milles
17 au 18/06/2011 : Moorea – Bora-Bora : 130 milles
27/06 au 09/072/011 : Bora-Bora – Tonga : 1.300 milles
14 au 17/07/2011 : Tonga – Suva (Fiji) : 470 milles
27/07 au 30/07/2011 : Suva (Fiji) – Port Vila (Vanuatu) : 600 milles
09 au 24/08/2011 : Port Vila (Vanuatu) – Darwin (Australia) : 2.400 milles
26/09 au 11/11/2011 : Darwin (Australia) – Durban (South Africa) : 6.000 milles
17 au 19/11/2011 : Durban – Port Elizabeth (South Africa) : 420 milles
24 au 26/11/2011 : Port Elizabeth – Cape Town (South Africa) : 470 milles
12/12/2011 au 21/02/2012 : Cape Town (South Africa) – Saint Martin : 5.800 milles.

Sur son trajet, elle prend le temps de s’arrêter un peu partout. Elle prend des photos, filme des bouts de son aventure, elle affronte des tempêtes et réussit à rentrer saine et sauve à Saint-Martin. Au total son périple aura duré 1 an et demi. 400 personnes sont présentes pour l’applaudir lorsqu’elle accoste au ponton du Yacht-Club. Parmi elles, ses parents, sa sœur et de nombreux proches bien évidemment.

Laura vient de prouver que, même si tout tout le monde ne peut pas faire un tour du monde à la voile en solitaire, elle, elle en est capable !

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Art. 3 – The preparations before the departure

(All the words followed by * are explained in the glossary at the end of this article)
Nautigirl is mine. Before moving in, I spend 3 days cleaning her from top to bottom : the second last owner had scattered anti-cockroach powder everywhere and Frédéric, the last buyer, never got rid of it. It’s everywhere in the boat… Except if he got involved in a trafficking of cocaine from Saint Lucia(*) ending up in some kind of snowball fight aboard which I seriously doubt… This chemical substance seems really effective because I see no trace of a living insect. Given the large quantity of powder I find in the storage compartments, even in the seat cushions seams, I am sure the cockroaches were not the only ones to die.
After having vacuumed most of it, I delicately try to remove the rest of it with a sponge, hands protected with gloves, trying not to inadvertently inhale anything. Some places are simply inaccessible and I eventually give up the idea of removing all tracks of this product. It is here for too long and here and there, it seems stuck on the resin itself. I do my best and, well, if there is still a little, it is even better, it will put off cockroaches wanting to test their luck aboard.
The spring cleaning of the boat is now finished. This required no advanced knowledge so that was easy for me… Now, the question is : how am I going to move her ? The marina authorized me to stay here till the end of the month because, even if Frédéric had sold his boat, they would not retrocede him a share of the monthly rent he had paid, and he generously didn’t ask me to pay anything for it. I have to move the boat the day after tomorrow and for now, I still do not know how I will do it.
I may have recently got my deep-sea licence(*) – 1 month before my Transatlantic – because I wanted to know more about boats, but I learnt nothing about sailing really, I just learnt how to create a route or to take a bearing(*), and I had a 20 out of 20 ! That is again my « perfect student » side who thinks there is certificate for everything… Well, regarding sailing, there is no substitute for experience… It’s one thing to cross the Atlantic on a big vessel (a Sun Odyssey 479) with a crew and a skipper abord and it’s another thing to be by yourself aboard your own boat.
I have never done any manoeuvres in port, I have seen the engine being started only once and it is a little bit more complicated than just turning the starter key, I do not know how the autopilot(*) is working and I have no clue about how you deal with a boat and the sails all together when you have no crew to help… I need an operating manual instructions or rather, as I have done to learn how to drive a car, I think I need an accompanied practice to gain self-confidence and to get to know my boat. And indeed, I think of someone owning Nautigirl’s twin and who could help me. It is Pierre, that buddy who abruptly abandoned me on my way to meet Frédéric at the marina when we were supposed to go together to this appointment… It has been a few days now, maybe he will be in a better mood…
I call Pierre to know if he is willing to help me. It seems he is not such a bad guy as he answers positively to my request. Though, I should stipulate that I offered to pay him for his time and the knowledge he is willing to share with me. This has been a good motivating factor, for sure. In truth, as he has no job yet, it suits him fine even if he will not admit it…
I pick him up in Anses d’Arlets, an hour’s drive from marina Z’Abricots and comes back with him to the boat. He inspects scrupulously my new purchase. He is calling me a fool for having bought her on a whim in spite of my lack of expertise. He is turning a deaf ear when I remember him that I had first planned to have guidance from a specialist. I put an end to the discussion asking : « Well, it is done now, so : how do you find my boat ? ».
He comments everything looking suspicious to him. He checks the good condition of the rigging(*), he looks up at the mast and ensures it is straight, he looks closely to the shrouds(*). Not a word. Then he puts one hand on a winch(*) trying to make it twist. Nothing… It is stuck. Like all the others in fact… Well, I haven’t given the slightest thought to checking that. Frédéric had told me that he sailed on a regular basis, it is why I supposed that the winches worked well. How did he manage to tighten the genoa(*) or hoist(*) the mainsail(*) otherwise ? On second thought, it looks like he didn’t spend so much time learning how to sail or he quitted a while ago…
Then, Pierre checks the state of halyards(*) and sheets(*) as well as the state of the stanchions(*) feet, the toe rail(*) and the guardrail(*). Afterwards, he stands a minute on the saloon steps(*) detailing the inside of the boat before stepping in. He lifts the steps bringing the engine into view. He stares at it silently, checks the level of oil and its aspect, starts it for a few minutes, listens and then switchs it of.
He flips up the different parts of the floor, another thing I didn’t think of and he exclaims : « The bolts of the keel(*) ! They are hidden ! ». Exact… We see only big bumps covered with resin and white paint. I wonder aloud : « Ha ? And this is important ? » Right away, he lectures me telling me how important are theses bolts because they are the ones maintaining the keel attached to the hull. It is why it is so important to check on them on a regular basis. They should not be hidden. He thinks it could be a trick played by the previous owner to hide the poor condition of theses bolts. I already figure my boat suddenly losing her keel while sailing. So that’s it ? Simple screws holding the whole keel ? I thought… I don’t know… I thought it was welded or glued or whatever but not simply screwed… Pierre would almost make me think I have been tricked ! I quickly call Frédéric for explanations. He tells me that the table – in the center of the boat – is not the original one. When it was set up, its two feet were close to the keel bolts and to make it look nice and clean, it was decided to put resin on both the feet and the bolts. That’s all. After him, theses bolts are in a perfect condition. « Ah ? Ok… ». I can only trust him, otherwise I should remove the thick layer of resin to reveal the top of bolts. Not easy to verify such statements, hummm … I will see that point later …
I turn to Pierre : « And apart from that ? Huh ? Of course, there are points to be checked, but still, I did not buy a ruin? Yes ? », « No ? Haaa, that’s a great news !!! ». I can tell by his funny face that he considers that it could have been worse, that I had only been lucky, so I should better not gloat … In his opinion, he would have seen at once what is wrong and he would have negotiate harshly the price… According to me, though, I think that if I had tried to negotiate, the next visitor would have paid cash the exact amount and today, I wouldn’t own Nautigirl. It is clear we have strong difficulties to have our sights set. It is promising for the future…

He finishes the inspection of the boat and then he starts to raise a list of things to buy to work on her. For now, indeed, I own no tool. I have just arrived from my Transatlantic with my backpack and my kite and these are all my belongings. The only tool I found on board, it is a 12 volts drill/driver.

The most fortunate buyers of a boat find on board a complete toolkit, when others have to make one from scratch. Thus, we go shopping in different hardware stores. I need a set of screwdrivers of various sizes and imprints, a hacksaw, a cutter and blades, several buckets (buckets are always useful on a boat), spanners, Allen wrenches, various drills and imprints for the driller, a hammer etc. In brief, I spend a fortune to have a minimum of tools on board and become a fresh handywoman. This is a detail I paid no attention to when I bought Nautigirl : when you buy a boat and that the previous owner leave on board some equipment, this represents a considerable economy.

This reasoning applies to the dishes. To live on board, you need cutlery, plates, glasses, bowls, pans etc. and again, there was none on Nautigirl… It is a new hard blow for my purse… Oh no, I forgot : I found on board 4 purple plastic cups and a set of small yellow disposable plates… And a big bag of chips and a bottle of water ! Yahooo !!! In brief, it is not luxury aboard and I end up this costy day in a supermarket to buy dishes and food in order to be able to cook a meal on Nautigirl.

The following day, I come back to the boat with Pierre. I have already taken the time to tidy up all the tools inside. I am impatient to start my training : « Boat maintenance ».

First step : to dismantle all the winches which are all jammed. Pierre shows me how to clean the first one. He disassembles it completely taking care of putting all the different parts in a small basin. The bulk of the operation is not to lose any of them. And he teaches me that, being on a boat, the trick is to always use a bowl or something to store anything being dismantled to avoid losing it in the water. I stand and watch him et then I repeat his way on another winch. It is almost a Meccano construction game. You just need to know which part goes where. When everything is dismantled, we clean everything with diesel. We brush, we rub to remove dirt and old grease which are everywhere preventing the winches from working. Then we spray some WD 40, this magic product, some clean grease and hop ! we mount back the winch and miracle, it turns !!! A few hours later, all of them work. A first problem solved ! I manage not to lose anything even if I had a small fright, I should admit, when a small spring sprang from its location to fall inside the boat and not in the water. I have been lucky this time because the company which factored my winches does not exist any more and I have no way to find spare parts.

Second step : to do the routine maintenance of the engine. I have no clue about when the last draining and the change of the filters have been done. All I know is that Frédéric, the previous owner, has done nothing in 6 months of ownership so it could be a while. Thus, Pierre shows me how to do the oil draining  giving me some few tips at the same time to work without making a mess. For example, to cut a plastic bottle of water in its length which will fit under the draining screw to collect the old oil. He tells me the usefulness of baby diapers which are hyper absorbent and perfect to clean any oil running. Funny… I would have never thought that a baby diaper could be useful on a ship only if you have a baby… I film eveything he shows me in case I forget any detail when I will have to do it again by myself. Having removed the oil filter, he goes on with the circuit of diesel and dismantles the filter and the prefilter. The following morning, I run to buy the new filters from a shipchandler(*) and I combe back to Pierre my bag loaded with my purchases. He begins to put everything together while going on with more explanations. Then we check all the levels : oil, diesel and cooling liquid. While doing it, he reminds me all the steps to follow before starting the engine : seawater inlet valve opened, throttle control in neutral, switch number 1 on « on », switch number 2 on « preheating » hanging on for about 15 seconds and then « start ». The engine coughs and runs smoothly. Everything is fine, he hums as an old grandpa. At the back of the boat, I check that its spits water, sign that the engine is well cooled by the sea water.

Everything is fine for the departure tomorrow morning !


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PS : This story is real but names in the article have been changed to protect anonymity except prior express permission.

GLOSSARY :
Autopilot : as you can guess, it is comme son nom l’indique, it is a mechanism which allows to pilot a boat with no human intervention. Very helpful when you do not want to steer yourself !
Bearing : taking a bearing is measuring the angle under which you see something (a lighthouse, another boat etc.) compared to reference direction which is the North.
Companion way : it is the entrance to the inside of the boat.
Deep-sea licence : this licence authorizes to drive engine powered boats with no power limitation, nor size and you are free to go further than 6 nautical miles from a shelter. For your information, no licence is needed for a sailing vessel.
Genoa : front sail overlapping the mainsail.
Guardrails : cables, usually made of steel, running all around the boat’s deck through the stanchions and being part of the rail.
Halyard : “rope” you see hanging along the mast allowing to raise or lower a sail.
Hoist (to) : to raise a sail by means of ropes and pulleys.
Keel : kind of « ventral fin » you see under the boat’s hull used as a daggerboard. Weighted, it lowers the vessel’s centre of gravity, offering improved stability.
Mainsail : main sail of the boat all the way up the mast.
Rigging : apparatus through which the force of the wind is used to propel sailboats and sailing ships forward.
Saint-Lucia : it is an island nation in the south of Martinique.
Saloon steps : they give access to the companion way(*).
Sheet : “rope” tied to a sail allowing to adjust its angle compared to the wind (by easing or tightening it).
Shipchandler : store specialized in boat’s parts.
Shroud : pieces of standing rigging which hold the mast up from side to side.
Stanchions : vertical metal bars surrounding the vessel’s deck and in which the guardrails go through.
Toe rail : narrow strip which runs along the edges of a boat’s deck preventing, for example, feet from sliding overboard.